KartDen

Check camber before you chase pressure or heat. When the left front is gone on the inner edge and the right front is worn evenly across the face that split is geometry, not even temperature. Heat and air don't usually ruin only one inside edge while leaving the other front even. A hardness comparison on those two fronts keeps you from blaming the chassis for a softer carcass, but camber is still what you confirm first because it tells you whether you change something tonight. If the fronts also show wavy wear running with the tread, that can be understeer or a corner entered too hot, which is common in a first race at senior weight when the extra mass needs more slowing than the driver expects. You can confirm camber without tearing the kart down, so that check comes first when you only have one night.

A common misread is treating extra front marking as evidence that the chassis needs teardown. The front tires generate lateral force by running at a slip angle, meaning they are pointed slightly off the path they actually travel, so they convert more cornering energy into heat and surface abrasion than the rears do. The locked rear axle also makes both rear tires share similar longitudinal slip, which is why even rear wear is the expected look rather than proof that front geometry is correct. If that extra marking is spread across the tread, the mechanism is usually toe scrub plus the heat that follows it. Grain or polish concentrated on an inner or outer shoulder is a camber and contact-patch loading issue, and that pattern is the one worth changing before the frame comes apart.