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Trail brake or not
What actually decides lap time here is whether the kart still needs rotation after turn-in. On a rear-brake chassis, leftover pedal force unloads the axle you need to pivot around. Carry it deep and the kart may refuse to rotate. Release everything in a straight line and you can arrive with the inside rear still planted and a push.
I would treat release rate as the first thing to change. The never-overlap habit also looks fragile in a tight decreasing-radius entry, where steering alone may not get the nose in. Is this really a trail-brake question, or just how quickly you come off?
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Get the hard braking done before the wheel is really in. What remains is only the last of the pedal, and that is a release-rate problem rather than a trail-or-not one. Meaningful pressure after turn-in on a rear-brake chassis unloads the inside rear you need as a pivot, and the kart will not rotate. That mistake costs more than a slightly early release ever will.
Coming off entirely before turn-in often leaves the kart tight, with steering unable to finish the rotation, particularly in a tight decreasing-radius corner. Bleed the last of it only while the chassis still needs to rotate, and be off before you want throttle. If the kart is already free on entry, extra pedal makes the rear step out and you wait on throttle. Overlap only pays when it is still tight after the wheel is in. Until the bleed is clean, coming off earlier is the more repeatable choice. A late or sloppy trail still costs exit speed even when the apex looks acceptable.
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